3d Printing for Research and Development

February 24, 2010 by · 7 Comments
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7 Responses to “3d Printing for Research and Development”
  1. taurean_lady06 says:
    February 24, 2010 at 12:47 am

    The film development and printing processes?
    I’m in urgent need of help regarding a college project for photography.

    I need A description of the film development process including: time, temperature, chemical mixing, drying, cutting and storing.
    (step by step process would be good)

    and

    A description of the printing process. How long is the photopaper in the developer for? Why is the paper washed between developer and fixer? How long is the photopaper fixed for? How long is the photopaper washed for after the process and why?

    - I have tried researching on the internet, and I’m not getting anywhere fast! =(

    thank you for your time. your help will be greatly appreciated!

  2. James Simist says:
    February 24, 2010 at 5:49 am

    Well, I used to study Photography during my time in College, It’s really hard at the start of it and you do get used to the method of development, So here how it goes.

    When you have a completed film, It’s meant to go into the container but beware of something, It’s not a good idea doing this sort of progress in Light, because you will not get the best results once you have progressed it fairly, To make something fair, Work in pitch black and work your way into the container with the film, Once you’ve worked through it and closed the lid, Light is tolerant at anytime.

    The chemicals in the development i’am not too sure about, You’re meant to leave the photomaker in one if the mixtures for at least 1 minute then you move to another chemical for 30 seconds then you move it to another chemical and leave that for 5 minutes, Once you’ve timed it then you should be satisfactory of placing the development in the tray of water, This takes up to five minutes. Once you’ve done, There it is :)
    References :

  3. Edwin says:
    February 24, 2010 at 5:51 am

    Get a copy of the KODAK DARKROOM DATA GUIDE.

    If you can find it, the book "OBJECT & IMAGE: AN INTRODUCTION TO PHOTOGRAPHY, THIRD EDITION" by George M. Craven is an excellent source for answering your questions.

    Ansel Adams wrote several books. The two most beneficial to you would be "THE NEGATIVE" and "THE PRINT".
    References :

  4. tonystygal says:
    February 24, 2010 at 5:53 am

    http://www.ilford.com/en/products/ilfochrome/chemistry.aspI haven’t followed this through completely but it could help.
    Obviously the process is different for colour and black and white.
    I used to use D76 developer and plain fixer. Processing times are different for different types of papers.
    You wash the paper between Dev and fix 1. to stop the development and 2. so that the fixer doesn’t get tainted by developer.
    If you can’t find the answers on the net try a photographic shop, they may have dev and fix instructions laying around.
    Hope this helps.
    References :

  5. fhotoace says:
    February 24, 2010 at 5:55 am

    What did you miss? The whole first semester?

    The camera and how to use it, film development and printing are what the first semester of photo class is all about.

    This is not a process that can be covered here in a few paragraphs.

    Get hold of your instructor (or an advanced student) and have them show you what to do. Just leaning how to load the film is a process that requires "hands-on" practice. Trying to "learn" how to develop and print film in a vacuum, will only lead to frustration.
    References :
    Photo instructor

  6. owner_of_a_lonely_CAR says:
    February 24, 2010 at 5:57 am

    That a lot to post on one question / answer. I did a quick google search on "Darkroom" and found this

    http://www.photogs.com/bwworld/bwresources.html

    I think the first 3 links will answer most of your question.
    ===
    The reason you "wash" between bath is to extend the life of the chemicals.

    Good Luck.
    References :

  7. DigiDoc says:
    February 24, 2010 at 5:59 am

    Check this out…
    http://www.darkroomsource.net/tech-bw-film.shtml

    The negative development time is based on the temperature of the chemicals (in BW). This is the GREAT thing about BW. You look at a chart that comes with the chemicals, and it will tell you the time. In Color, your precision must be within 1/2 a degree. You do this by putting the chemicals in a water bath that you keep at that temperature with a heater. Precision in color photography is critical, in BW it’s much more lenient.

    In Black and White printing you have 3 trays, the developer, the stop bath, and the fixer.

    The developer takes the blank paper and creates a chemical reaction with the paper. Areas that were exposed to light are black, areas that were not are white (think about the negative and why it’s the opposite of the print). The time varies mstly based on the exposure you used (ie. how well you got it right). If you were off a bit, you can correct it by developing it a shorter time or a longer time.

    The next tray is the STOP Bath. This quickly stops the developer from doing it’s thing. If you didn’t do this part, the paper would eventually go black. This is about 30 seconds.

    The last tray is the Fixer. UP until this point, the paper is still sensitive to light, so if you turned on the light right now, the paper would go black. BW paper is not sensitive to red light, so you are doing this under a red light. You place the paper in the fixer to fix the paper from being sensitive to light.

    The last step is to wash the paper under running water. This rinses any residue of all the chemicals.

    The proportions for mixing the chemicals can be found on the bags or bottles of the chemicals.

    This is it in a nutshell, the URL above will give you more details.

    If you are actually going to do this, when you are finished using the printing chemicals, pour the chemicals together and watch them turn a pretty purple.
    References :

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